Visiting a familiar city with a child is a totally different experience. Frank and I had both spent plenty of time in Paris before having kids, so we didn’t feel the typical pressure to sprint between tourist landmarks. We’d already checked off the Louvre and Montmartre on previous trips.
This time, with our one-year-old, Poppy, in tow, we were looking to experience Paris the way we would at home in New York—lingering in neighborhood parks, people-watching from café terraces, and wandering without purpose. Here’s our perfect long weekend guide to Paris with a toddler, where we followed Poppy’s lead and perfected the art of slowing down and savoring ordinary moments.
WHERE TO STAY
Our goal was to be able to travel mostly by foot, and sometimes by Metro, so we opted to stay at Hotel Thoumieux, a boutique hotel in the heart of Paris’ 7th arrondissement. The Eiffel Tower, Hôtel des Invalides, and the Invalides Bridge to cross the Seine were all less than a 15-minute walk.
Since we stayed so close to the Eiffel Tower, we ended each day with an evening picnic on the Champ de Mars. We grabbed waffles and ice cream from a nearby vendor and settled on the grass to watch the lights twinkle.
If you’re traveling with a stroller, keep in mind that many hotels in Paris are old and have extremely small elevators, or none at all. Our hotel kindly housed our stroller in a closet on the first floor, so we didn’t need to lug it up and down steps each day. They also loaned us a pack-and-play.
WHERE TO EAT
Paris spoils you with amazing bakeries on practically every corner. We fell into a delicious morning routine at Le Moulin de la Vierge, where we started each day sampling their pastries. Everything we tasted (and we tasted a lot!) had that perfect buttery, flaky magic that makes French baking so special. Poppy’s crumb-covered smile said it all.
Lunchtime was easy thanks to the city’s casual brasseries that cater to everyone’s cravings. Mom and Dad could indulge in Croque Monsieurs, salads, and spritzes while Poppy happily demolished plates of frites.
Our weekend discovery was Rosa Bonheur, a lively spot that offers wood-fired pizzas, picnic table seating, and spectacular Seine views. Just one word of advice: arrive early and wrap up before sunset, unless you want to accidentally introduce your toddler to Parisian nightlife.
For dinner we were lucky enough to snag a reservation at Pink Mamma, a trendy and highly aesthetic Italian restaurant that offers a “Plat Bambini,” an $8 kids’ portion of the pasta of the day.
WHERE TO PLAY
We spent our most memorable day at the Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens), a sprawling, historic park in Paris’s Latin Quarter. On our way, we stopped at a street market and loaded up on cheese, bread, and fruit. We plopped down on a perfect spot on the lawn and voilà, Poppy took her very first steps! While that moment was hard to top, the Luxembourg Gardens also has several playgrounds, pony rides, puppet shows, and boat rides.
On the topic of playgrounds, Paris is loaded with them. It seems as though every corner has a park, and every park has a thoughtfully laid out play area for children. We stumbled on one of our favorites in the heart of the Tuileries Garden (the iconic park between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde). It had activities for all ages, access to snacks, and plenty of shade.
(Tip: Pack a picnic blanket so you’re ready for impromptu park snacking at all times. Our favorite is water resistant, light weight, and big enough to fit a family of four.)
Paris also has charming carousels throughout the city. We took multiple rides on the Eiffel Tower Carousel at the Trocadero, but it’s currently down due to the 2024 Olympics. Other must-see carousels are the Carrousel de Saint-Pierre in Montmartre, Jules Verne Carousel in Parc de la Villette, and the Hôtel de Ville Carousel.
Story by Christine Detris
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